The first Grand Seiko debuted in Tokyo in 1960. The reference 3180 was made by Suwa Seikosha. Rather than sending its 25 Jewels Chronometer movement to the Swiss to be tested, Seiko decided to do the testing themselves. The European Chronometer Official Association believed that a chronometer-rated watch had to be independently tested to be awarded that designation. Seiko watches were not independently tested, so therefore they could not be chronometers. The ECOA did what irritated watchmakers do; they wrote a stern letter to Seiko requesting that Chronometer designation on Grand and King Seiko watches stop. Seiko obliged and ceased using "Chronometer" on their watches. In response, the Japanese Chronometer Authorization Association was started in 1968 as an independent group to test timepieces to chronometer standards. The Association was short-lived: due to the rise of quartz watches, it closed in 1983. Today Grand Seiko movements are tested over 17 days in 6 positions compared to COSC testing over 15 days in 5 positions. In 1985 Suwa Seikosha became Seiko Epson Corporation. In 2017 Seiko announced that Grand Seiko would become an independent brand.
Our 2021 Grand Seiko Manually Wound SBGW235 is part of their Elegance collection. It is bringing together the sophistication of a dress watch with the craftsmanship of true experts at Grand Seiko. The 37mm stainless steel case has perfect polishing, something we sometimes take for granted on a Grand Seiko. It’s not until we have one on the wrist that we can truly appreciate the sheer brilliance of the Zaratsu polishers. A lug to lug length of 44mm and a thickness of 12mm gives the watch an excellent wrist presence. The holed lugs gently curve over your wrist for a comfortable fit. On the right side, a signed crown. A stepped polished bezel holds a slightly domed sapphire crystal with an AR coating. The eggshell dial has an outer minute track with applied steel batons precisely chamfered edges Zaratsu polished. As you rotate your wrist, the dial magically plays with the light. Steel dauphine hands that have been Zaratsu polished are complemented by a thermally blued sweeping seconds hand that adds a pop of colour to this distinctive timepiece. An applied GS and precisely printed Grand Seiko at 12. On the reverse, a screw-down exhibition case with sapphire crystal showcasing the movement. Inside a Manually Wound Grand Seiko Cal. 9S64A, 24 jewels, 28,800 beats per hour, and an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The movement has been adjusted to six positions and temperatures at the factory. Finished with attractive Cotes de Geneve decoration. The watch comes fitted on a 19mm Grand Seiko stainless steel beads of rice bracelet with a signed push-button clasp and comes with its Grand Seiko presentation box and papers.
Points of Mention
This watch is sold with its original Grand Seiko box and paperwork. The watch comes paired on its original Grand Seiko beads of rice bracelet, all spare links included. The watch is from February 2021 and is sold in worn condition, but overall very fair as you can see from the photos. The watch comes with its original Manufacturer Warranty.