1990s Zenith El Primero Rainbow Flyback 40mm 02.0480.405

Here we have a 1990s Zenith El Primero Rainbow Flyback, 40mm, ref. 02.0480.405, made for the French Ministry of Defence. It required a timepiece for their pilots, designed to withstand the high “G” forces and magnetic fields they experienced; the tender was issued in 1997.  The brushed 40mm stainless steel case curves around your wrist, with thick, tapered drilled lugs. A lug-to-lug length of 46mm and a case thickness of 12.5mm give the watch an impressive wrist presence. Down the right side, we have the recessed chronograph pushers and a crown in the centre with deep knurling for grip. The stainless steel bezel has deep knurling and a black aluminium 60-minute insert with silver numerals, markings and the first 20 minutes highlighted. A flat sapphire crystal sits above a matte black dynamic dial. An outer Telemeter scale chapter ring surrounds the minutes precisely executed, Arabic numerals are coated in a thick layer of Tritium marking the hours, the chronograph consists of a colourful ‘Rainbow’ 30-minute register with an orange hand, at 6 o’clock a 12-hour register with a Tritium coated hand and at 9 o’clock small seconds with a Tritium coated hand, between the four and five a colour matched date window. Slender white sword hands are filled with Tritium and complemented by an orange arrow-pointed chronograph hand; at noon, we have the Zenith  El Primero motif and “Automatic” printed underneath, completing this striking Rainbow Flyback chronograph. On the reverse, a screw-down case back with the details of the watch engraved around the edge and the Zenith shield in the centre; inside an automatic Zenith Cal. 405, 31 jewels, beating at 36,000 beats per hour, this column-wheel flyback chronograph is made up of 331 components. The watch comes paired with a well-suited 20mm vintage-style leather strap and a pin buckle.

This watch is sold as Watch Only and, therefore, comes without its Zenith box or Zenith paperwork. The watch comes paired with a well-suited 20mm vintage-style leather strap and a pin buckle. The watch is from Circa. 1990s and is sold in worn condition, but overall, it is a lovely, honest example with subtle fading, as you can see. The flyback doesn't always land bang on zero, but always resets to zero after stopping. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.

The Rainbow Flyback has always been one of my favourite Zenith chronographs, but it's examples like this that really make me stop and appreciate them. Over the years, the colours have mellowed beautifully, the bright orange chronograph hand has softened to an almost peach tone, while the red section of the bezel has faded into a wonderful fuchsia pink. It's completely unique to this watch and gives it a character that simply can't be replicated. I love honest ageing like this. Rather than detracting from the watch, it tells its own story and makes this Rainbow Flyback truly one of a kind. When you then consider everything else you're getting, the legendary El Primero high-beat flyback movement, genuine military heritage, and one of the most distinctive chronograph designs of the 1990s, the value for money is undeniable. I would not hesitate to add this watch to your collection today!

Reference : 02.0480.405
Movement : Automatic Zenith Cal. 405
Age : Circa. 1990s
Year : Circa. 1990s
Case Size : 40mm
Case Thickness : 12.5mm
Lug to Lug : 46mm
Lugs : 20mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box and Papers : None
Case Material : Stainless Steel
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
The wrist model's wrist size is 7inch

Zenith was established in 1865 by the ambitious 22-year-old watchmaking prodigy Georges Favre-Jacot. The company established its manufacturing base in Le Locle, a picturesque town in the Swiss Jura Mountains known for its rich horological heritage. The brand gained international recognition in 1909 when the pioneering French aviator Louis Blériot wore a Zenith watch during his historic flight across the English Channel, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. Zenith's watches have adorned the wrists of remarkable adventurers, including the legendary Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen. He made history by being the first person to reach both the South Pole in 1911 and the North Pole in 1926. As the company approached its centennial celebration in 1965, Zenith’s designers sought to confront the most challenging technological hurdle facing the watch industry: the creation of a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. Their efforts culminated in the development of the legendary El Primero movement, which was released in 1969. The El Primero, known for its high-frequency escapement and remarkable accuracy, went into production in 1975 and saw a re-issue in 1986. However, the 1960s were turbulent for Zenith due to ongoing litigation regarding naming rights. To navigate through these challenges, the Zenith watch company merged in 1968 with Movado, another respected Swiss brand. This strategic alliance allowed Zenith to leverage Movado’s extensive distribution networks in the United States and stabilise its presence in the market. In 1971, the Zenith Radio Company, which had previously been in conflict with its Swiss counterpart, opted to buy Zenith Watch Company, effectively uniting two entities under the same brand during a challenging period known as the Quartz Crisis. In 1975, Zenith's leadership made the drastic decision to transition entirely to quartz watch production, marking a significant shift in their manufacturing philosophy. This included the controversial decision to destroy all mechanical watch components and blueprints, including those related to the historical El Primero movement. However, thanks to the courageous actions of Charles Vermot, a senior engineer in Zenith’s movement-making department, the company's rich mechanical heritage was saved. Together with a small group of loyal colleagues, Vermot secretly hid the El Primero blueprints and parts in a concealed attic at the factory, preserving them for potential future use amidst the pervasive quartz trend. Vermot’s foresight bore fruit in the 1980s as the market shifted back toward mechanical watches. Prominent brands like Ebel and Rolex reintroduced mechanical chronograph styles, paving the way for Zenith’s revival. The carefully safeguarded El Primero re-emerged as the driving force behind Rolex's hugely successful Daytona series. In 1978, Zenith was acquired from Zenith Radio Company, which is now part of LG Electronics, by Dixi, a company specialising in machine tools based in Le Locle. This transition marked a new chapter for Zenith, which began reintroducing its El Primero-equipped chronograph watches to meet the rising demand for high-end mechanical timepieces. In 1999, Zenith became part of the prestigious LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) group, aligning itself with other luxury brands such as TAG Heuer and Hublot. Even today, Zenith stands out as one of the few Swiss manufacturers that not only produces mechanical watches but also crafts its own movements.