1963 Grand Seiko "First" J14070 14K Gold Filled 'Raised Dial' 35mm

Here we have a super rare, magnificent and historic 1963 Grand Seiko "First" J14070 14K Gold Filled 'Raised Dial' 35mm. Launched in 1960 to challenge Swiss chronometer supremacy, the "First" established Grand Seiko as the pinnacle of Japanese horological craftsmanship. A 35mm 14K gold-filled case offers a warm, vintage-luxury aesthetic, while a slim profile of 9.5mm and a lug-to-lug length of 42.5mm ensure it sits elegantly as a classic dress watch. On the right side, an original signed push-pull crown allows for smooth interaction with the movement. The fixed, polished gold-filled bezel features a slim profile that accentuates the expansive dial. A domed acrylic crystal sits above a pristine silver dial, featuring the highly coveted and rare "raised" logo, where the Grand Seiko name is deeply stamped from the back to create a three-dimensional effect. An outer minute track surrounds applied, multi-faceted gold baton indexes that capture and reflect light with dazzling precision. Elegant, razor-sharp Dauphine hands sweep across the dial, underscoring the brand's early dedication to absolute legibility. Below the 12 o'clock Grand Seiko motif, the dial reads "Chronometer", with "Diashock 25 Jewels" printed above the 6 o'clock position. The eight-pointed star, also known historically as the "Special Dial" (SD) mark, indicates that the dial is crafted from premium, precious materials and indicates that the indices and hands are made of solid gold. On the reverse, a solid snap-on case back features the iconic, highly detailed gold Grand Seiko lion medallion. Inside beats the manually wound Grand Seiko Cal. 3180, a chronometer-grade powerhouse featuring 25 jewels and beating at a traditional 18,000 beats per hour. It was the first Japanese watch movement to meet the very high “Standard of Excellence” set by the official Swiss body Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres. It comes paired with an 18mm premium brown leather strap, secured by a gold-plated pin buckle that beautifully complements the case material.

This watch is sold as ‘Watch Only’. The watch is from Circa. 1963, and is sold in worn vintage condition, with its ‘Special’ gold indices and hands, which have developed a warm gold burn, including a worn gold medallion back, as you can see. It comes paired with an 18mm premium brown leather strap, secured by a gold-plated pin buckle that beautifully complements the case material. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.

This is THE truly special vintage Grand Seiko that reminds you why the brand became such a force in watchmaking. The raised dial alone is enough to stop you in your tracks, it adds so much depth and presence in person, and then you start noticing all the little details like the solid gold hands and indices, the lion medallion, and the beautiful 14K gold-filled case. What makes it even cooler is the history behind it. This wasn’t just another dress watch; it was Seiko proving to the Swiss that Japan could compete at the very highest level. Elegant, important, and unbelievably classy on the wrist. Add this rare vintage gem to your collection today!

Reference : J14070
Movement : Manually Wound Grand Seiko Cal. 3180
Age : Circa. 1963
Year : 1963
Case Size : 35mm
Case Thickness : 9.5mm
Lug to Lug : 42.5mm
Lugs : 18mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box and Papers : None
Case Material : 14K Gold Filled
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
The wrist model's wrist size is 7inch

The first Grand Seiko debuted in Tokyo in 1960 at Suwa Seikosha, established in 1942 in Nagano, Japan. Grand Seiko watches are handcrafted by highly skilled artisans and master watchmakers, often referred to as Takumi (meaning "master craftsman" or "artisan" in Japanese). In 1962, Taro Tanaka developed a set of design guidelines known as the "Grammar of Design," which aimed to create a cohesive look for Seiko watches. These guidelines encompassed nine key principles that distinguished the watches. Some of these principles involve Zaratsu polishing that makes the watch surfaces shine beautifully and reflect light in interesting ways. There’s also an emphasis on using unique shapes for the watch cases, ensuring that every part is perfectly shaped, and adding features like sharp, clean edges and well-designed hands and markers that catch the eye. Today, Tanaka's principles still apply to the modern Grand Seiko philosophy. Rather than sending its 25 Jewels Chronometer movement to the Swiss to be tested, Seiko decided to do the testing themselves. The European Chronometer Official Association believed that a chronometer-rated watch had to be independently tested to be awarded that designation. Seiko watches were not independently tested, so therefore they could not be chronometers. The ECOA did what irritated watchmakers do: they wrote a stern letter to Seiko requesting that the designation of Chronometer on Grand and King Seiko watches stop. Seiko obliged and ceased using the text chronometer on their watches. In response, the Japanese Chronometer Authorisation Association was started in 1968 as an independent group to test timepieces to chronometer standards. The Association was short-lived: due to the rise of quartz watches, it closed in 1983. Today, Grand Seiko movements are tested over 17 days in 6 positions compared to COSC testing over 15 days in 5 positions. In 1985, Suwa Seikosha became Seiko Epson Corporation. In 2017, Seiko announced that Grand Seiko would become an independent brand. Grand Seiko watches are known for their unique quality because a single craftsman puts together each one, whether it uses quartz, mechanical movement, or Spring Drive technology. In the Shinshu Watch Studio, a talented watchmaker named Yoshifusa Nakazawa leads a skilled team at the Micro Artist Studio. This special workshop is dedicated to creating some of the most intricate and beautifully designed Spring Drive watches, which are carefully finished and assembled by hand.