1959 Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Black Spider Dial 35.5mm

Here we have a 1959 Universal Genève Polerouter Date Black Spider Dial 204503-2, an iconic mid-century timepiece capturing the peak of Gérald Genta's early design brilliance. With a 35.5mm stainless steel case featuring the legendary twisted bombe lugs, its expressive flanks lead to a lug-to-lug length of 44.5mm and a case thickness of 10mm, ensuring an elegant profile on the wrist. On the right side sits a classic coin-edged crown. A slim bezel holds a domed crystal above a highly coveted black "spider" dial, where the original glossy lacquer has naturally aged into a unique, web-like crazed pattern. The inner dial is surrounded by the signature textured asymmetric tension ring with integrated hour markers that catch the light beautifully. At 3 o’clock sits a trapezoidal date window, while sharp Dauphine hands are complemented by a tapered sweeping second hand. At 12 o’clock, we have the Universal Genève motif and “Polerouter Date”, while at 6 o’clock, “Automatic” completes this character-rich vintage watch. On the reverse is a screw-down stainless steel case back, inside of which beats the automatic Universal Genève Cal. 215-17, a pioneering micro-rotor movement featuring 28 jewels and beating at 18,000 beats per hour. It comes paired with a well-suited 18mm leather strap.

This watch is sold “Watch Only” and therefore comes with no original Universal Geneve box or papers. It comes paired with a well-suited 18mm leather strap. The watch is from Circa. 1959 is in fair vintage used condition for its age. With patina across the dial, hands and batons. The reference and serial numbers are no longer visible on the case back, as you can see from the photographs. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.

The first thing everyone notices about this watch is the dial, and rightly so. The incredible "spider" effect is the result of the original glossy lacquer naturally crazing over decades, creating a unique web-like pattern. No two spider dials are ever the same, making each watch completely individual. I'll be the first to admit they're not for everyone. Some collectors prefer a pristine dial, while others love the character and individuality that only time can create. I definitely fall into the latter camp. There's something fascinating about knowing that this watch has developed its own personality over the last 65 years. If you're someone who appreciates vintage watches for their originality and the stories they tell, rather than absolute perfection, then a spider dial Polerouter is incredibly hard to beat. Add this amazing example to your collection today!

Reference : 204503-2
Movement : Micro-Rotor UG Cal. 215-17
Age : Circa. 1959
Year : 1959
Case Size : 35.5mm
Case Thickness : 10mm
Lug to Lug : 44.5mm
Lugs : 18mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box and Papers : None
Case Material : Stainless Steel
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
The wrist model's wrist size is 7inch

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch, by two Horology students, Ulysse-Georges Perret and Numa-Emile Descombes. By 1919, they had moved their operations to Geneva and renamed the brand Universal Genève. They have been owned by Stelux, a Hong Kong investment group, since 1989. In December of 2023, it was announced that The Partners Group, a private equity firm that owns a majority stake in Breitling, is planning to acquire the Swiss luxury watch brand Universal Genève from Stelux Holdings. This Hong Kong-based holding company has been the brand's custodian since 1989. Over the years, Universal Genève has struggled to gain investment and marketing direction under Stelux Holdings, leading the brand to fall behind its competitors in the luxury watch market. However, the acquisition by The Partners Group is expected to change that. The move is largely driven by Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling, who has expressed his desire to bring back the historical brand and help it regain its former glory. Kern has successfully turned around the fortunes of Breitling since he took over in 2017, and he is expected to apply the same strategy to Universal Genève. The acquisition comes at a time when there is increased interest in vintage watches, particularly those made by Universal Genève. The brand's vintage timepieces have been fetching record prices at auctions, indicating a renewed interest in the brand. With the cash infusion from The Partners Group, Universal Genève is expected to launch new models and expand its product line to cater to the growing demand for luxury vintage watches. The market is receptive to new offerings from the brand, and the acquisition is seen as a positive step towards reviving Universal Genève's reputation as a leading luxury watch brand.