1950s Movado 14K Gold 'FB' Case 'Calatrava' Manual 261 31.5mm

Here we have a classic 1950s Movado 14K Gold "Calatrava" Manual with a robust 14k yellow gold 31.5mm round case. The case was beautifully manufactured by François Borgel (Taubert & Fils), featuring its legendary construction. Its elegant, faceted lugs lead to a lug-to-lug length of 39mm and a slim case thickness of 8.5mm, ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. On the right side is a crisp, coin-edged crown. A polished bezel holds a domed crystal above the refined, rare two-tone dial, which gracefully exhibits applied gold Breguet numerals. Elegant hands sweep across the dial to track the time cleanly. On the reverse, a solid 14k gold screw-down case back protects an in-house, manually wound Movado Cal. 261, 17 jewels movement. It comes paired with a 16mm leather strap secured by a pin buckle.

This watch is sold with no box or paperwork. It comes paired with a 16mm leather strap secured by a pin buckle. The watch is from Circa. 1950s and is in worn, vintage condition. As you can see from the photos, it is in overall great condition for its age; its original attributes are beautifully preserved with even patina. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.

With values of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 96 continuing to climb, it only makes sense that collectors are beginning to appreciate beautifully made alternatives like this. But this isn't just any vintage Movado. The first thing that struck me was the exquisite two-tone dial. The applied Breguet numerals give it an elegance that's hard to find, and the proportions are simply spot on. Then there's the case, manufactured by the legendary François Borgel (Taubert & Fils), whose work is closely associated with some of the finest names in Swiss watchmaking, including Patek Philippe. When you combine a Borgel case, an in-house Movado movement, and a dial of this quality, you end up with a watch that punches well above its price point. For collectors who appreciate exceptional mid-century watchmaking without venturing into six-figure territory, I think this represents a fantastic opportunity. Snap up this vintage gem whilst you still can!

Reference : 5755
Movement : Manually Wound Movado Cal. 261
Age : Circa. 1950s
Year : Circa. 1950s
Case Size : 31.5mm
Case Thickness : 8.5mm
Lug to Lug : 39mm
Lugs : 16mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box and Papers : None
Case Material : 14ct Yellow Gold
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
The wrist model's wrist size is 7inch

Achilles Ditesheim, a visionary entrepreneur, embarked on his journey at the young age of 19 when he founded LAI Ditescheim & Freres SA in 1881. With a small team of six skilled watchmakers, he established a workshop in the quaint Swiss village of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a hub of horological craftsmanship known for its rich watchmaking heritage. In 1905, recognising the need for a globally resonated brand, he rebranded the company as Movado, which translates to “always in motion” in Esperanto, the constructed international language designed for universal communication. This name would come to symbolise the brand’s commitment to forward-thinking design and innovation. A seminal moment in Movado’s history came in 1912 with the introduction of the Polyplan, a groundbreaking watch design that captured the attention of the Swiss watch industry and earned the company its 20th patent. The Polyplan featured a revolutionary movement that consisted of three planes strategically angled to fit a case that conformed to the natural contours of the wrist, enhancing both aesthetics and comfort. As the clouds of World War I gathered on the horizon, Movado swiftly designed the Soldier’s Watch, a remarkable blend of form and function. This timepiece featured a distinctive pierced metal cover that protected the watch crystal while allowing for easy readability of the time—a crucial feature for soldiers in the field. Movado continued to push the boundaries of watchmaking innovation with the introduction of the Acvatic, the company’s first venture into water-resistant watches. The Acvatic was equipped with a patented Decagonal case design, a screw-down back featuring a lead gasket for enhanced waterproofing, and a cork seal that protected the crown for winding, making it a robust option for active wearers. In 1945, Movado made another significant advancement in horology with the introduction of the Tempomatic. This marked the brand's first timepiece to incorporate an automatic movement, showcasing its commitment to integrating advanced technology into its designs. The post-World War II era heralded a vibrant and innovative period for Movado. The company embraced the buoyant spirit of the times with a rapid succession of transformative products. Among these were the Calendomatic—the world’s first self-winding calendar watch, the innovative Celestograph—a watch that elegantly displayed the moon phases, and the Calendarmeto—a reinterpretation of the Ermeto that incorporated day, month, and moon phase complications, appealing to a wide range of customers. In 1947, renowned designer Nathan George Horwitt unveiled the single-dot watch dial, which became a defining element of modern watch design. In 1960, Horwitt’s minimalist creation received high acclaim when it became the first watch dial ever to be accepted by the Museum of Modern Art in New York, solidifying Movado’s status in the realm of fine art and design. Since its launch in 1956, the Movado Kingmatic has been an icon of mid-century design, symbolising the brand’s dedication to quality and precision in watchmaking. At the 1969 Basel Fair, Movado made strides in the industry once again by partnering with Zenith to debut the world’s first automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero. This revolutionary innovation set new standards in watchmaking, reshaping the landscape of horology. In 1983, as Movado entered its second century, Gedalio Grinberg acquired the company and integrated it into the North American Watch Corporation. This marked a new chapter in Movado's history as it aimed to broaden its reach and appeal in the North American market. More recently, in 2017, Movado Group expanded its portfolio by acquiring Olivia Burton, a London-based brand renowned for its stylish fashion watches and jewellery, which ranks among the fastest-growing brands in the UK. Then, in October 2018, Movado Group further diversified its offerings with the acquisition of MVMT, a company focused on selling quartz watches, sunglasses, and jewellery. Today, the Movado Group continues to encompass several acclaimed brands, including Concord and Ebel, further solidifying its legacy as a leader in the watchmaking industry.