1950s IWC Cal89 Platinum Japanese Market 'Calatrava' 34.5mm

Here, we have a rare classic 1950s IWC Cal89 Platinum Japanese Market 'Calatrava'. The 34.5mm brushed and polished Platinum case gently curves over your wrist with finely tapered lugs. In the 1950s, ISOMURA Co. secured permission from IWC Schaffhausen to produce platinum cases for IWC watches, as a way to bypass high import costs, including a 30% duty and a 13% tax on precious metals. Other luxury brands like Rolex and Gruen soon followed suit. The Japanese market cases were notably inscribed with “PT900, Japanese flag PM900,” marking their quality and origin. Its curvaceous flanks lead to a lug-to-lug length of 44mm and a case thickness of just 8.5mm, ensuring a comfortable fit on your wrist. On the right side is a coin-edge crown. A smooth bezel holds a domed crystal above a crisp white dial in a configuration very much like the "Patek Calatrava" dials of the same time period. An outer minute track surrounds applied bullet-shaped indexes marking the hours; elegant stick hands are complemented by a tapered second hand. At 12 o’clock, we have the original IWC motif in an attractive swirling font. On the reverse, a solid brushed and polished case back, inside is a manually wound IWC Cal. 89, 16 jewels, beating at a leisurely 18,000 beats per hour. This Albert Pellaton-designed movement was introduced in 1946 and remained in production until 1979. The watch comes paired with a well-suited quick-release 18mm leather strap and pin buckle. It comes with its original IWC presentation box.

This watch is sold with its original IWC box. It is paired with an 18mm well-suited quick-release strap. The watch is from Circa. 1950s, it is sold in worn vintage condition, but the watch remains in all-original and very fair condition for its age. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.

I had heard about these 'Japanese' Platinum models but never handled one, and when this came across my desk, I was intrigued, as at a glance, you'd never know this is something really special. In the 1950s, ISOMURA Co. secured permission from IWC Schaffhausen to produce platinum cases for IWC watches, as a way to bypass high import costs, including a 30% duty and a 13% tax on precious metals. The Japanese market cases were notably inscribed with “PT900, Japanese flag PM900,” marking their quality and origin. I would not hesitate to book an appointment and see this watch in the Platinum for yourself, whilst you can!

Reference : 10160
Movement : Manually Wound IWC Cal. 89
Age : Circa. 1950s
Year : Circa. 1950s
Case Size : 34.5mm
Case Thickness : 8.5mm
Lug to Lug : 44mm
Lugs : 18mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box and Papers : Box
Case Material : Platinum PT900
Warranty : 12 Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
The wrist model's wrist size is 7inch

In 1867, a passionate visionary named Florentine embarked on a quest to revolutionise the art of watchmaking in Europe by applying for a passport. Fueled by the ambition to craft timepieces using the innovative American system of watchmaking, he drew inspiration from the renowned Federal Armouries at Springfield and Harper's Ferry. This meticulous system was designed for armaments requiring precision-engineered interchangeable parts—an ideal match for the world of horology. As a true pioneer, Florentine was instrumental in introducing this groundbreaking approach to the Swiss watchmaking industry. By 1868, Florentine had arrived in the picturesque town of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, where he teamed up with Charles Kidder. Together, they founded a company originally named F. A. Jones & Co. This name would evolve into the iconic IWC International Watch Company, a brand that would come to symbolise excellence in watchmaking. In 1876, after years of dedication, Florentine returned to the United States, where he eventually retired, leaving behind a legacy that lasted until his passing in 1916. The year 1885 marked a significant milestone for IWC with the launch of the first pocket watches featuring a revolutionary digital hours and minutes display known as the Pallweber system. As time progressed, the company continued to break new ground, producing one of the first ladies' wristwatches in 1899, showcasing IWC's commitment to innovation and inclusivity in horological design. In 1905, Ernst Jakob Homberger took over IWC's management on behalf of Rauschenbach's heirs, eventually becoming the sole owner after acquiring C.G. Jung's holdings in 1929. The following years saw remarkable advancements, such as the introduction of IWC's first pilot's watch in 1936, which featured a clever rotating bezel and indicator to log take-off times. The iconic Portuguese watch was designed in 1939, followed closely by the creation of the Big Pilot 52T SC, which catered to a growing demand for larger timepieces with a central second hand. During the tumultuous times of World War II, IWC introduced its first W.W.W. military watch in 1944, specifically crafted for the British military. Four years later, the Pilot's Watch Mark 11 was designed, incorporating an iron cage to protect against magnetic fields. A pivotal moment came in 1950 when Albert Pellaton unveiled the Calibre 85, IWC's first automatic movement featuring an innovative patented pawl-winding system. In 1955, Hans Ernst Homberger became the last private owner of IWC, continuing the legacy of craftsmanship and innovation. The late 1960s brought new challenges with the quartz crisis; however, IWC managed to adapt and evolve. In 1967, they launched the Aquatimer dive watch, and in collaboration with other Swiss brands, they participated in the development of the Beta 21 quartz movement in 1969. The renowned watch designer Gerald Genta made his mark in 1976 with the creation of the iconic Ingenieur, symbolising elegance and engineering prowess. A significant shift occurred in 1978 when German instrument manufacturer VDO Adolf Schindling AG acquired IWC, marking a new era for the brand. During this time, F. A. Porsche designed a groundbreaking chronograph, recognised as the world's first timepiece encased in titanium, a material primarily used in the aviation industry. The spirit of innovation that Florentine nurtured throughout his life continues to resonate in modern IWC watches. In 1990, the company unveiled a horological masterpiece: the Grand Complication, featuring a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and moon phase indicator—a true testament to IWC's craftsmanship. At the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva in 2000, IWC dazzled attendees with the introduction of the Big Pilot's Watch. The watch showcased an exceptional automatic 7-day movement that earned accolades from watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Since then, IWC has become an esteemed member of the Richemont Group, a collective of luxury brands. In 2017, IWC unveiled its groundbreaking invention, “Ceratanium®,” a unique blend of titanium and ceramic alloy meticulously engineered over five years of research and development. This remarkable material combines the lightweight nature of titanium with the strength and scratch resistance of ceramic, yielding a sleek, stealthy black finish that has since become iconic. Today, IWC continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking, consistently innovating and expanding the horizons of horological artistry while honouring its rich heritage.