1960s Universal Genève Polerouter Jet 18ct Gold Micro-Rotor 10364-1
Ref: 10364-1
Specification
Lugs : 18mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box & Papers : None
Case Material : 18ct Yellow Gold
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
Points of Mention
This watch is sold “Watch Only” and therefore comes with no original Universal Geneve box or papers. It comes paired with a well-suited 18mm brown leather strap. The watch is from Circa. 1960s in very fair vintage condition for its age. With a pleasing, even patina across the dial, hands and batons, including some subtle gold case burn in some places. The reference and serial numbers are visible on the case back, as you can see from the photographs. The watch comes with our 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty.
For more photos see here - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1R7qyLEuVn-dR_G25G_H2da4BrKjglr6b?usp=drive_link
4K YouTube video, skip to 16:48 - https://youtu.be/wx86ZfP2KZo
The Watch
Here we have a rarely seen 1960s Universal Genève Polerouter Jet 18ct Gold Micro-Rotor 10364-1 that has a stunning 34.5mm 18ct Yellow Gold case. The Polerouter was first introduced in 1954 and was worn by commercial flight captains for Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS). Their flights took them from Europe to America via Greenland, over the polar region, hence the “Polerouter” name. The Polerouter was designed by Gérald Genta at the age of 24. Tapered flat-ended lugs are hallmarked with a lug-to-lug length of 43mm and a case thickness of just 9mm, ensuring a comfortable fit on your wrist. On the right side is a yellow-gold, coin-edged crown. A thin, smooth, chamfered-edged bezel holds a domed crystal above a striking gold, vertically brushed dial; an outer minute track surrounds a polished ring with double block hour markers, which catch the light as you rotate your wrist. Elegant Dauphine hands are complemented by a tapered sweeping second hand. At 12 o’clock, we have the Universal Genève motif “Polerouter Jet” and at 6 o’clock “, Automatic Microtor” completes this sophisticated dress watch.
On the reverse, a screw-down 18ct yellow gold polished and machine-turned case back, engraved on the inside with the Swiss hallmarks and the Universal Genève shield, inside an automatic Universal Geneve Cal. 215-9, 28 jewels, beating at 21,600 beats per hour, this micro-rotor movement was launched in 1958. It comes paired with a well-suited 18mm brown leather strap.
Personal Note
With the purchase of Universal Geneve by Breitling, the excitement among collectors can be felt, and interest in their vintage watches, especially the Polerouter, seems to be only increasing. This Universal Genève Polerouter Jet in 18ct yellow gold offers something slightly different with straight lugs and an undeniably beautiful 18ct gold dial to boot. Powered by the Calibre 215-9 it still features their iconic micro-rotor and is a marvel to look at. I always find it amazing how watches like this were made with such beautiful finishing and yet hidden away for only watchmakers to see at the time, what a true testament to craft. I would not hesitate to add this reference 10364-1 to your collection today whilst you can!
The Brand
Universal Genève was founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch, by two Horology students, Ulysse-Georges Perret and Numa-Emile Descombes. By 1919, they had moved their operations to Geneva and renamed the brand Universal Genève. They have been owned by Stelux, a Hong Kong investment group, since 1989.
In December of 2023, it was announced that The Partners Group, a private equity firm that owns a majority stake in Breitling, is planning to acquire the Swiss luxury watch brand Universal Genève from Stelux Holdings. This Hong Kong-based holding company has been the brand's custodian since 1989. Over the years, Universal Genève has struggled to gain investment and marketing direction under Stelux Holdings, leading the brand to fall behind its competitors in the luxury watch market. However, the acquisition by The Partners Group is expected to change that. The move is largely driven by Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling, who has expressed his desire to bring back the historical brand and help it regain its former glory. Kern has successfully turned around the fortunes of Breitling since he took over in 2017, and he is expected to apply the same strategy to Universal Genève. The acquisition comes at a time when there is increased interest in vintage watches, particularly those made by Universal Genève. The brand's vintage timepieces have been fetching record prices at auctions, indicating a renewed interest in the brand. With the cash infusion from The Partners Group, Universal Genève is expected to launch new models and expand its product line to cater to the growing demand for luxury vintage watches. The market is receptive to new offerings from the brand, and the acquisition is seen as a positive step towards reviving Universal Genève's reputation as a leading luxury watch brand.