1990s IWC Novecento Perpetual Calendar Automatic 18ct Gold 3545
Ref: 3545
Specification
Lugs : 22mm
Condition : Pre-Owned
Box & Papers : Service IWC Box & Papers
Case Material : 18ct Yellow Gold
Warranty : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
Points of Mention
This watch is sold with an IWC Service box and includes IWC Service paperwork from 2025. It is paired with a well-suited 19mm Strap Tailor leather strap and 18ct yellow gold IWC buckle. The watch is from Circa. 1990s and is sold in worn condition, but overall, very fair condition for its age. As you can see, it is fresh from a 2025 IWC Full Service, where the watch was also polished. The watch comes with our 12-Months Non-Waterproof Warranty.
For more photos see here - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17QntlsTldT2XVGQx2a5O6cSGTe7vxEaQ?usp=drive_link
4K YouTube video, skip to 9:47 - https://youtu.be/R3ojpj5fMug
The Watch
Here we have a classic 1990s IWC Novecento Perpetual Calendar Automatic 3545 with a 26.5mm “Tank” shaped 18ct Yellow Gold case that sits on your wrist with straight lugs. The straight flanks lead to a lug-to-lug length of 41mm and a case thickness of just 8.5mm, ensuring a comfortable fit. On the right side, there is an onion-style crown. The flat crystal sits above a stunning white dial. An outer rail minute track has yellow gold indexes and black markings surrounding the Perpetual Calendar configuration of a Day register at 12, a moonphase at 3, a date register at 6, a month register at nine and a year indicator at 11; each register is slightly recessed with a gold ring and thermally blued hands. Elegant yellow-gold leaf hands sit majestically in the centre. The IWC motif is off-centre, and the “Automatic” “Perpetuel” lies along the bottom edge. On the reverse, there is a solid 18ct yellow gold screwed-down brushed and polished solid case back engraved with “Novecento”, inside an Automatic IWC Cal. 32062, 35 Jewels beating at 21,600 Beats per hour. IWC Head Watchmaker Mr Kurt Klaus designed this perpetual calendar with an ingenious synchronisation of the calendar using a single crown instead of the usual pushers around the case. It is paired with a well-suited 19mm Strap Tailor leather strap and 18ct yellow gold IWC buckle. This watch is sold with an IWC Service box and includes IWC Service paperwork from 2025.
Personal Note
This IWC Novecento feels like a watch that has somehow remained mostly unknown within collecting circles and, therefore, massively underappreciated. This watch features a perpetual calendar by the legendary Kurt Klaus that is adjusted simply through the crown alone, no pesky pushers or figuring out what to change first. I believe another brand just celebrated that recently... It is cased in an 18ct yellow gold 'Tank'/rectangular case, yet somehow remains to be one of the most easily legible perpetual calendars I have seen, plus they throw in a screw down crown for good measure. This Novecento, reference 3545, ticks so many boxes and can be had for an absolute bargain relative to what we have just discussed, plus this example is fresh from a full service with IWC and is now ready to be picked up and enjoyed!
The Brand
In 1867, a passionate visionary named Florentine embarked on a quest to revolutionise the art of watchmaking in Europe by applying for a passport. Fueled by the ambition to craft timepieces using the innovative American system of watchmaking, he drew inspiration from the renowned Federal Armories at Springfield and Harpers Ferry. This meticulous system was designed for armaments requiring precision-engineered interchangeable parts—an ideal match for the world of horology. As a true pioneer, Florentine was instrumental in introducing this groundbreaking approach to the Swiss watchmaking industry. By 1868, Florentine had arrived in the picturesque town of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, where he teamed up with Charles Kidder. Together, they founded a company originally named F. A. Jones & Co. This name would evolve into the iconic IWC International Watch Company, a brand that would come to symbolise excellence in watchmaking. In 1876, after years of dedication, Florentine returned to the United States, where he eventually retired, leaving behind a legacy that lasted until his passing in 1916. The year 1885 marked a significant milestone for IWC with the launch of the first pocket watches featuring a revolutionary digital hours and minutes display known as the Pallweber system. As time progressed, the company continued to break new grounds, producing one of the first ladies' wristwatches in 1899, showcasing IWC's commitment to innovation and inclusivity in horological design. In 1905, Ernst Jakob Homberger took over IWC's management on behalf of Rauschenbach's heirs, eventually becoming the sole owner after acquiring C.G. Jung's holdings in 1929. The following years saw remarkable advancements, such as the introduction of IWC's first pilot's watch in 1936, which featured a clever rotating bezel and indicator to log take-off times.
The iconic Portuguese watch was designed in 1939, followed closely by the creation of the Big Pilot 52T SC, which catered to a growing demand for larger timepieces with a central second hand. During the tumultuous times of World War II, IWC introduced its first W.W.W. military watch in 1944, specifically crafted for the British military. Four years later, the Pilot's Watch Mark 11 was designed, incorporating an iron cage to protect against magnetic fields. A pivotal moment came in 1950 when Albert Pellaton unveiled the Calibre 85, IWC's first automatic movement featuring an innovative patented pawl-winding system. In 1955, Hans Ernst Homberger became the last private owner of IWC, continuing the legacy of craftsmanship and innovation. The late 1960s brought new challenges with the quartz crisis; however, IWC managed to adapt and evolve. In 1967, they launched the Aquatimer dive watch, and in collaboration with other Swiss brands, they participated in the development of the Beta 21 quartz movement in 1969. The renowned watch designer Gerald Genta made his mark in 1976 with the creation of the iconic Ingenieur, symbolising elegance and engineering prowess. A significant shift occurred in 1978 when German instrument manufacturer VDO Adolf Schindling AG acquired IWC, marking a new era for the brand. During this time, F. A. Porsche designed a groundbreaking chronograph, recognised as the world's first timepiece encased in titanium, a material primarily used in the aviation industry. The spirit of innovation that Florentine nurtured throughout his life continues to resonate in modern IWC watches. In 1990, the company unveiled a horological masterpiece: the Grand Complication, featuring a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and moon phase indicator—a true testament to IWC's craftsmanship. At the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva in 2000, IWC dazzled attendees with the introduction of the Big Pilot's Watch. The watch showcased an exceptional automatic 7-day movement that earned accolades from watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Since then, IWC has become an esteemed member of the Richemont Group, a collective of luxury brands. In 2017, IWC unveiled its groundbreaking invention, “Ceratanium®,” a unique blend of titanium and ceramic alloy meticulously engineered over five years of research and development. This remarkable material combines the lightweight nature of titanium with the strength and scratch resistance of ceramic, yielding a sleek, stealthy black finish that has since become iconic. Today, IWC continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking, consistently innovating and expanding the horizons of horological artistry while honouring its rich heritage.